Travel Film: Crossing the Darién Gap (2013, 2016)
Crossing the Darién Gap (Darien Gap) and hiking in the jungle from Colombia to Panama
Darién Gap is one of the most difficult areas on earth to travel and it is considered to be extremely dangerous. This film includes footage from a speedboat ride from Turbo to Capurganá, border villages, and the jungle on both sides of the border between Panama and Colombia. There are interviews with two fellow travellers who crossed the Darién Gap, one from Switzerland and another from Peru. Crossing the Darién Gap (40 minutes, Päivi & Santeri Kannisto, 2013 & 2016) has English, Spanish and Finnish subtitles.
2016-2-28 update notes
We have re-edited the original film (filmed in 2013, released on April 17, 2013) based on the feedback. The timeline was re-organized chronologically, most of the score was removed and the film now features Full HD 1080p. Thank you all of our 50,000+ viewers for watching the film, especially those who gave us improvement proposals and shared their views.
English subtitles
Subtítulos en español
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Transcript 1 00:00:07,771 --> 00:00:10,910 Päivi & Santeri 2 00:00:14,380 --> 00:00:18,494 A Colombian paramilitary group has reportedly kidnapped three Americans in the Darién Gap 3 00:00:18,494 --> 00:00:21,849 We strongly advise you not to travel to the Darién Gap because of the risk of violent criminal activity 4 00:00:21,849 --> 00:00:24,369 Drug-running Colombian rebels are using the dense, lawless jungle to smuggle cocaine 5 00:00:24,400 --> 00:00:26,400 Colombian terrorist groups, drug traffickers and other criminals throughout the Panama-Colombia border 6 00:00:26,404 --> 00:00:28,924 Foreign nationals have been the victims of violent crimes, kidnapping and murder 7 00:01:14,000 --> 00:01:18,200 Crossing the Darién Gap 8 00:01:22,705 --> 00:01:24,889 Colombia 9 00:01:25,412 --> 00:01:27,913 Darién Gap 10 00:01:29,820 --> 00:01:32,250 Panama 11 00:02:01,000 --> 00:02:05,320 Turbo, Colombia March 10-13, 2013 12 00:07:16,080 --> 00:07:20,660 Capurganá, Colombia March 14, 2013 13 00:08:15,873 --> 00:08:21,693 Is this your first time in Colombia? Yes, this is my first trip to Colombia. 14 00:08:22,740 --> 00:08:26,897 I think I will come back again. 15 00:08:28,400 --> 00:08:29,580 So you like it here? 16 00:08:30,020 --> 00:08:35,980 Yes, there are a lot of nice and beautiful places here. 17 00:08:37,940 --> 00:08:39,680 How do you feel about this place? 18 00:08:40,880 --> 00:08:48,560 It's a quiet place, a small village. 19 00:08:49,740 --> 00:08:54,580 It's really nice. People are not very very friendly. 20 00:08:56,840 --> 00:09:01,140 But it is an isolated place and if you want to 21 00:09:01,240 --> 00:09:06,180 relax a couple days, it's perfect. 22 00:10:14,300 --> 00:10:17,479 Immigration? It is not here. 23 00:10:18,080 --> 00:10:20,900 Are you going straight somewhere? 24 00:10:22,920 --> 00:10:26,780 The immigration is not open now because there is no electricity. 25 00:10:27,000 --> 00:10:30,500 They can't stamp your passport without electricity. 26 00:10:42,080 --> 00:10:44,620 Breakfast US $4 27 00:13:03,080 --> 00:13:06,560 What was your route from Peru to Capurganá? 28 00:13:06,895 --> 00:13:10,895 My trip was quite monumental I have to say. 29 00:13:12,657 --> 00:13:18,137 I left from Lima and went to Tumbes. 30 00:13:18,729 --> 00:13:25,309 I was at the beach at the border. Punta Sal was very beautiful. 31 00:13:26,540 --> 00:13:33,020 I wanted to go back there one day. 32 00:13:34,920 --> 00:13:36,240 Is it in Peru? 33 00:13:36,460 --> 00:13:39,000 Yes, Tumbes is near the border in Northern Peru. 34 00:13:39,380 --> 00:13:43,780 Very beautiful, also the beaches. 35 00:13:46,060 --> 00:13:51,040 From there I went to Guayaquil, Ecuador, then 36 00:13:51,300 --> 00:13:56,600 to Quito and to the Colombian border. 37 00:13:57,031 --> 00:14:01,031 From the Colombian border I went 38 00:14:01,340 --> 00:14:09,260 to Medellín, Turbo and Capurganá. 39 00:14:11,660 --> 00:14:16,480 How did you come here? By speedboat and bus from Medellín. 40 00:14:16,700 --> 00:14:21,140 OK, so you took a bus from Medellín and then where did you go? 41 00:14:21,440 --> 00:14:27,480 To Turbo. And then by speedboat 2.5 hours. 42 00:14:28,940 --> 00:14:31,840 How was the ride? Bumpy. 43 00:14:32,200 --> 00:14:33,940 A little bit, yeah. 44 00:14:34,420 --> 00:14:38,160 I came here by boat. 45 00:14:38,480 --> 00:14:43,780 And that was really a boat, not a bus. 46 00:14:44,220 --> 00:14:46,020 Were you seasick? 47 00:14:46,400 --> 00:14:51,120 No, fortunately I took some precautions. 48 00:14:53,180 --> 00:14:55,160 Did you take medication? 49 00:14:55,424 --> 00:15:04,304 No, I just relaxed and tried to enjoy the ride. 50 00:15:05,140 --> 00:15:08,480 The trip took a bit over 2 hours. 51 00:15:09,000 --> 00:15:16,580 I am not used to being at sea. 52 00:15:19,740 --> 00:15:21,240 Was there a lot of water flying all over? 53 00:15:21,500 --> 00:15:30,360 Yes, a lot of water and jumping up and down. 54 00:15:32,942 --> 00:15:38,862 But the trip went fine and we enjoyed it. 55 00:15:39,840 --> 00:15:42,700 Some people were yelling. 56 00:15:43,080 --> 00:15:49,820 Soon I was anxiously waiting for the arrival. 57 00:15:51,320 --> 00:15:53,920 When we were in Turbo, it was funny, 58 00:15:54,260 --> 00:15:56,840 we were just shooting there in the harbour. 59 00:15:57,085 --> 00:15:59,612 And then they got really irritated saying that you 60 00:15:59,638 --> 00:16:02,336 can't shoot here. And then the immigration came 61 00:16:02,423 --> 00:16:04,923 and they took us to some place and checked 62 00:16:05,100 --> 00:16:07,320 our passports and then they were asking 63 00:16:07,376 --> 00:16:09,817 all the time "Are you journalists?" 64 00:16:09,843 --> 00:16:11,323 "Are you journalists?" 65 00:16:12,360 --> 00:16:16,640 I think I saw you. OK, you saw us shooting there? 66 00:16:16,860 --> 00:16:18,460 Yeah. OK, yeah, so it was really funny. 67 00:16:18,580 --> 00:16:20,760 Then I was asking them why 68 00:16:20,960 --> 00:16:23,800 are you so afraid of journalists. 69 00:16:23,940 --> 00:16:26,020 "Just show me your passport." 70 00:16:26,100 --> 00:16:28,200 "I need to check it for your own safety." 71 00:16:28,380 --> 00:16:31,380 Then we showed them, he checked them, alright, and 72 00:16:31,580 --> 00:16:34,340 then he asked once more: "Are you journalists?" 73 00:16:35,440 --> 00:16:42,220 Once in your lifetime to be in a city called Turbo. 74 00:16:43,320 --> 00:16:45,000 Yeah, it's a funny name. 75 00:16:45,300 --> 00:16:49,100 Turbo. Sounds like some kind of drug. 76 00:16:49,920 --> 00:16:53,920 It's a strange city, noisy. 77 00:16:57,000 --> 00:17:00,060 It was actually the only Colombian city we have 78 00:17:00,280 --> 00:17:03,480 visited so far where tap water was not potable. 79 00:17:03,740 --> 00:17:07,320 It was so bad that it looked like porridge. 80 00:18:07,238 --> 00:18:10,238 We went yesterday for a little walk. 81 00:18:10,387 --> 00:18:12,887 We walked from Capurganá, from here, 82 00:18:12,910 --> 00:18:15,110 all the way to Panama. 83 00:18:15,329 --> 00:18:18,329 How was the trail, how did you like it? 84 00:18:18,631 --> 00:18:22,631 Nice, a bit muddy, 85 00:18:22,657 --> 00:18:26,656 like always in the jungle. 86 00:18:27,574 --> 00:18:32,574 The hike was a bit tedious 87 00:18:32,692 --> 00:18:36,192 but when we arrived, 88 00:18:36,298 --> 00:18:40,031 I didn't think about it anymore. 89 00:18:40,257 --> 00:18:43,257 It was worth all the trouble. 90 00:18:43,587 --> 00:18:46,587 It was fabulous. 91 00:18:47,576 --> 00:18:50,576 I have to admit that it 92 00:18:50,617 --> 00:18:53,617 was indeed worthwhile. 93 00:18:54,142 --> 00:18:59,142 As I said, my trip was long. 94 00:18:59,554 --> 00:19:02,054 The whole journey. 95 00:19:02,079 --> 00:19:04,579 But coming here, 96 00:19:04,800 --> 00:19:07,800 yes, it was definitely worth the trouble. 97 00:19:08,078 --> 00:19:11,778 The jungle is so beautiful and peaceful. 98 00:19:12,186 --> 00:19:15,430 It rains 3 times a day or so and 99 00:19:15,456 --> 00:19:18,955 the path gets really muddy when it's raining. 100 00:19:23,489 --> 00:19:25,989 It is something you can walk without 101 00:19:26,020 --> 00:19:28,020 backpack and a lot of stuff. 102 00:19:28,217 --> 00:19:31,017 But if you have all your gear with you, 103 00:19:31,189 --> 00:19:36,189 then it is not so fun any more because it's a slippery mudslide. 104 00:20:46,411 --> 00:20:48,411 Scenic place 105 00:24:53,353 --> 00:24:58,853 Of course there are always some problems in touristy places such as this. 106 00:24:59,041 --> 00:25:02,717 Yesterday we took a boat to Sapzurro. 107 00:25:04,159 --> 00:25:09,174 There was a small incident with the price. 108 00:25:09,400 --> 00:25:17,400 Yes, I understand that as a Latin American person. 109 00:25:20,167 --> 00:25:27,167 You expect these kind of things to happen. 110 00:25:30,128 --> 00:25:34,128 Many times you have to adapt. 111 00:25:34,381 --> 00:25:37,381 You can't help it, these things just happen. 112 00:25:37,920 --> 00:25:40,997 Some people take advantage of others. 113 00:25:41,497 --> 00:25:44,997 Like yesterday, we agreed about the price 114 00:25:45,022 --> 00:25:50,022 for the trip but the guy changed it afterwards. 115 00:25:50,636 --> 00:25:57,636 They just try to take advantage of you. 116 00:25:58,233 --> 00:26:01,033 But you learn to notice it. 117 00:26:01,233 --> 00:26:06,233 You need to be prepared. 118 00:26:06,658 --> 00:26:10,958 Keep things clear and always check the price. 119 00:26:11,083 --> 00:26:13,083 Make sure there's an agreement. 120 00:26:13,233 --> 00:26:17,433 But when someone changes the rules on the way, 121 00:26:17,458 --> 00:26:19,458 what can you do? 122 00:26:21,170 --> 00:26:26,170 You will have to negotiate so that nobody loses. 123 00:26:26,383 --> 00:26:29,083 Meeting halfway 124 00:26:29,180 --> 00:26:34,180 so that you don't lose and I don't lose. 125 00:26:34,205 --> 00:26:38,205 Solomon's judgement. 126 00:26:39,047 --> 00:26:43,559 You have travelled with Markus who is from Europe. 127 00:26:44,756 --> 00:26:50,156 Does he have more problems than 128 00:26:50,319 --> 00:26:54,519 you because you speak Spanish? 129 00:26:54,679 --> 00:26:56,679 Yes, yes. 130 00:26:58,064 --> 00:27:02,064 There is a huge difference. 131 00:27:02,089 --> 00:27:06,379 You see it in many places. 132 00:27:07,405 --> 00:27:10,905 I notice it right away. 133 00:27:11,130 --> 00:27:15,130 In prices, when talking with people, when buying something. 134 00:27:16,720 --> 00:27:20,720 Suddenly everything just changes 135 00:27:20,745 --> 00:27:24,745 if they see you with a person who looks different. 136 00:27:24,770 --> 00:27:31,770 I do the negotiations because I speak the language. 137 00:27:33,395 --> 00:27:39,395 So we try to get the right price. 138 00:27:39,520 --> 00:27:45,520 Their prices change according to the customer. 139 00:27:45,570 --> 00:27:49,570 They take advantage of you. 140 00:27:50,200 --> 00:27:54,200 It is discrimination in that sense. 141 00:27:54,225 --> 00:27:59,225 It seems to me that you often feel discriminated. 142 00:27:59,336 --> 00:28:04,336 Because of your skin colour, you pay a different price. 143 00:28:04,500 --> 00:28:08,000 It is just another form of discrimination 144 00:28:08,200 --> 00:28:13,700 They think you have more money than they have. 145 00:28:13,780 --> 00:28:17,280 I don't like it, but that's how it is. 146 00:28:18,120 --> 00:28:21,620 Does that happen only in Colombia? 147 00:28:22,851 --> 00:28:29,851 No, it is everywhere here, also in Peru and Bolivia. 148 00:29:41,348 --> 00:29:48,348 What is the image of Colombia and Colombians in Peru? 149 00:29:49,739 --> 00:29:57,739 The image I had was that Colombia is dangerous. 150 00:29:58,341 --> 00:30:04,717 There are guerrillas that make it dangerous. 151 00:30:04,886 --> 00:30:09,886 Thanks to this, I was prepared. 152 00:30:11,312 --> 00:30:16,312 There are a lot of policemen and soldiers around. 153 00:30:16,400 --> 00:30:21,400 They make travelling safe. 154 00:30:22,225 --> 00:30:30,225 In other countries, you just hear rumours. 155 00:30:30,450 --> 00:30:36,450 But you need to see it for yourself. 156 00:30:36,475 --> 00:30:42,475 You never know, you might want to return. 157 00:30:43,673 --> 00:30:46,673 Do you feel that it is dangerous here? 158 00:30:46,800 --> 00:30:51,800 At the moment no, except the sea. 159 00:30:54,300 --> 00:30:59,300 No, fortunately not. Everything is fine. 160 00:30:59,525 --> 00:31:06,525 It's about inner peace, you have to break out of your comfort zone. 161 00:31:06,820 --> 00:31:10,820 When you are relaxed, you are not thinking 162 00:31:11,007 --> 00:31:16,007 all the time what bad can happen to you. 163 00:31:16,727 --> 00:31:22,367 Something can always happen, but... 164 00:31:23,896 --> 00:31:27,096 Have you felt unsafe here, are there some dangers? 165 00:31:27,258 --> 00:31:28,258 No, not at all. 166 00:31:29,541 --> 00:31:34,638 Is there anything negative in Colombia that 167 00:31:34,664 --> 00:31:39,296 you have experienced during your travel? 168 00:31:40,577 --> 00:31:42,077 Prices. 169 00:31:42,283 --> 00:31:46,283 Yes, prices, they are high. Colombia is very expensive. 170 00:31:46,931 --> 00:31:52,231 That is the only negative thing. Ttravel costs. 171 00:31:52,386 --> 00:31:55,386 Accommodation, food? 172 00:31:55,518 --> 00:31:58,918 No, I can manage with food and accommodation 173 00:31:58,967 --> 00:32:02,967 but travelling is outrageously expensive. 174 00:32:03,974 --> 00:32:08,974 On top of everything else, you have to pay that, too. 175 00:32:11,706 --> 00:32:16,206 This is the only negative thing. 176 00:32:39,244 --> 00:32:41,244 Panama 177 00:33:06,207 --> 00:33:07,707 Welcome to Panama 178 00:33:46,457 --> 00:33:49,582 At the Colombia-Panama border 179 00:33:49,608 --> 00:33:52,200 there was a little shack 180 00:33:52,630 --> 00:33:55,278 where they checked passports and 181 00:33:55,304 --> 00:33:57,758 wrote down passport numbers and names. 182 00:33:58,154 --> 00:34:02,877 We asked them about walking all the way from 183 00:34:02,903 --> 00:34:07,240 La Miel, the border city on the Panamian side, 184 00:34:07,392 --> 00:34:12,151 to Puerto Obaldia where there is airport and transportation. 185 00:34:12,887 --> 00:34:18,237 The border guard told that there can be 186 00:34:18,337 --> 00:34:23,337 some gangsters or some drug smugglers or 187 00:34:23,433 --> 00:34:27,233 bad guys or at least there has been at some point. 188 00:34:27,259 --> 00:34:30,059 Or at least everybody is forbidden to walk there. 189 00:34:30,154 --> 00:34:33,754 On the Colombian side everything has been very safe, 190 00:34:34,011 --> 00:34:37,701 also on the Panamian side there was nothing really. 191 00:34:37,932 --> 00:34:41,932 The only guns were in the hands of the border guards. Everybody else was pretty relaxed, 192 00:34:42,383 --> 00:34:45,883 just some local indigenous people and that's all. 193 00:34:46,041 --> 00:34:50,041 Yeah. It didn't feel so dangerous. 194 00:34:50,680 --> 00:34:52,333 But anyway, maybe... 195 00:34:52,359 --> 00:34:56,407 I think they want to promote the (boat)trips. 196 00:34:56,886 --> 00:34:59,886 Yeah, maybe that's the reason. 197 00:35:00,142 --> 00:35:04,142 In the viewing platform we saw an American woman who 198 00:35:04,162 --> 00:35:09,662 was travelling with a local guide. She had been 199 00:35:09,741 --> 00:35:15,241 hiking in the south and she told that 200 00:35:15,305 --> 00:35:20,305 there are paths so it might be possible 201 00:35:20,315 --> 00:35:24,215 to walk all the way from the south to Capurganá. 202 00:35:24,313 --> 00:35:26,227 Not to take that speedboat. Oh really? 203 00:35:26,581 --> 00:35:29,573 According to her, yes. Her guide told that you 204 00:35:29,599 --> 00:35:32,162 can't walk all the way on the beach. 205 00:35:32,317 --> 00:35:35,835 At some point, you will have to go inland but there are paths. 206 00:35:36,061 --> 00:35:38,061 So if you can use your map and compass 207 00:35:38,094 --> 00:35:41,894 and know a little bit how to survive in the jungle 208 00:35:41,895 --> 00:35:43,495 it should be possible. 209 00:35:43,500 --> 00:35:48,000 Or if you hire a guide like she did. She was from New York. 210 00:35:58,086 --> 00:36:00,586 La Miel, Panama March 15, 2013 211 00:37:54,880 --> 00:37:58,966 Taking a flight sounds stupid because 212 00:37:58,992 --> 00:38:03,167 Panama is so near and Colombia is its neighbour. 213 00:38:03,857 --> 00:38:07,173 So why not try something else? Then we checked sail boats. 214 00:38:07,199 --> 00:38:10,386 Crazy expensive and we drink a lot of water 215 00:38:10,420 --> 00:38:13,772 so we can't carry enough water with us there. 216 00:38:14,198 --> 00:38:16,675 Then we found this route. 217 00:38:17,210 --> 00:38:20,410 From Turbo by speedboat and then walking. 218 00:38:21,737 --> 00:38:26,737 Yes, coming here was worth the trouble. 219 00:38:27,370 --> 00:38:31,370 After all, I'm here, what else can I say? 220 00:38:31,500 --> 00:38:35,500 It has been beautiful, interesting and 221 00:38:35,526 --> 00:38:40,625 it has changed my image of this place. 222 00:38:41,250 --> 00:38:47,250 I recommend it. 223 00:38:49,200 --> 00:38:53,200 I guess the biggest challenge for people crossing 224 00:38:53,220 --> 00:39:01,220 the Darién Gap has been taking some motor vehicles with them. 225 00:39:01,728 --> 00:39:04,728 That's what makes it complicated because there are no roads, 226 00:39:04,800 --> 00:39:07,351 just walking pathways. 227 00:39:07,441 --> 00:39:10,441 It is OK to walk, but if you want to drive 228 00:39:10,480 --> 00:39:14,980 a car, it might be hard. Yes. 229 00:39:15,054 --> 00:39:18,454 Even from Capurganá to Panama, think about driving there. 230 00:39:18,558 --> 00:39:22,919 In the mud and over the hills, it's just jungle. 231 00:39:25,591 --> 00:39:30,091 Thanks a lot! You are welcome. 232 00:39:37,681 --> 00:39:39,681 Crossing the Darién Gap 233 00:39:40,140 --> 00:39:43,240 Interviewees: Magnolia, 41, Peru. Markus, 44, Switzerland. 234 00:39:43,760 --> 00:39:46,700 Music: Jungle Boys and Juan 235 00:39:47,180 --> 00:39:49,680 Maps: 2D © OpenStreetMap contributors. 3D by NASA 236 00:39:50,240 --> 00:39:51,300 Production 237 00:39:51,840 --> 00:39:55,480 Filmed in Colombia and Panama in 2013 Produced by Päivi & Santeri, 2016 238 00:39:55,900 --> 00:39:59,880 read@nomadtravelbooks.com nomadtravelbooks.com
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Keywords: Crossing the Darién Gap, Darien Gap, crossing, film, movie, Turbo, Capurganá, Sapzurro, La Miel, Playa Blanca, Panama, Colombia, jungle, walking, trekking, hiking, documentary, the Darién Gap.
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